When the GM designers looked at spare tire locations for the 2-door Chevy Blazer, its quick wheelbase made for a daunting design compromise. The underside that the car has no room for a full-sized tire. For this reason they offered two solutions:
Neither option is ideal. Cargo space gets consumed up with the inside mount, and also the exterior mount requires the spare tire carrier to be swung the end whenever you want to open the tailgate. On share ZR2 Blazers favor mine, you can"t even open the behind glass there is no swing open the carrier, due to the fact that the tire is in the way. Plus, it blocks the rear view. Another common problem with the external spare is the carriers periodically come unlatched, i beg your pardon usually results in the carrier swinging open up all the way while you"re driving down the road.I addressed these worries with aid from the ZR2USA website, an initial by lowering the spare tire mount and then by adding a an additional latch. The square steel plate in the photo below is the lowering kit. It"s simply a steel plate placed to the carrier, through studs positioned a couple inches lower. Washers are offered to space the tire additional back, i beg your pardon helps administer enough void from the rear glass that it can be opened without having actually to swing out the carrier.
Secondary LatchFrom left to right: 1) transport open; 2) carrier closed; 3) Latch unhooked through squeezing the latch handle; 4) transport tries come open; second latch engages.
The main weakness that the outside-mounted spare tires is the weight of the wheel and tire ~ above the carrier. If I had actually to guess, in between the wheel, tire and also carrier, there"s at least 100 pounds placed to the rear quarter panel. Once the carrier is swung all the method out, the hinge and also brackets are supporting a pretty large load.A pair things can reason problems here. First, if the transport breaks totally free from the latch while the car is in motion, odds room it"s going come swing open up rapidly, every the method to the stops. The force of this can actually dent the quarter panel. If you perform a the majority of off-roading, every the bounding and also jostling might even cause the body panels come crack.
The pictures over are most likely extreme instances of how the transport brackets can damage the body. I"m not sure what problems this Blazer was propelled in, however I would certainly guess there was some off-roading involved. There"s yes, really no good way patch-fix this. Many carriers that end up this means probably aren"t delivering a spare tire anymore.On the left is a more common example of what happens once the transport swings out all the method to the stops. We"ll see listed below why the human body panels have the right to dent so quickly when this happens. There just isn"t much support behind those panels.I"ve viewed plenty that Blazers there is no the tires on the carrier, probably because of some of these issues. When Blazer owners offer up top top the carrier, most spare tires finish up acquisition up room in the cargo area. Others end up on the roof rack. Neither method is ideal, although that roof rack looks nice cool.....
On my Blazer, the carrier started rattling and also thumping pretty severely. Prior to I established what the noise was, I believed something could explode ago in the rear passenger side 4 minutes 1 panel area. Once the noise disappeared through the spare tire removed, ns knew it must be the transport mounting brackets. The mounting bolts were snug yet not super tight, so ns torqued them under a bit. That only made the difficulty worse.After a long duration of web research, using forums like s10forum.com, zr2USA.com and blazerforum.com, ns couldn"t find much help. Nobody had any kind of photos that what the transport mounting brackets connected to on the other side that the human body panel. The best I could find to be a diagram (click on diagram for bigger view):
Some the my internet research pointed come the hinge pins and also bushings as potential noise makers, however my hinges had actually very small play. The within brackets (#6 and also #7 in the diagram) had actually to it is in the problem.When i took personal the inside body panels and also exposed the inner part of the rear quarter panel, i saw just this:
The within bracket to be sandwiched in between the inner and outer human body walls. I might just proper make out the bolts poking v the rear-facing part of the bracket, yet not an excellent enough to tell anything around what was going ~ above in there.
You deserve to see the the bolt threads into what is usually a seed welded top top the inside bracket. The reason I determined to expose this particular bolt was because that nut point was driven in slightly. Through the transport removed and the M10x1.50 bolt threaded about a 3rd of the means into the nut, the bolt would move simply a little as i jerked ~ above it. The other bolts did no give an extremely much once threaded into the various other 5 holes (the brackets appear to be tack welded come the external body).When i exposed the bracket, the lower left corner had a small gap between the bracket and also the outer body wall. Not lot - probably about 1/16" of an inch. On a hunch, i shoved a nylon washer right into the gap, placed some electrical tape roughly the bracket come make certain the washer remained put, and also then offered it a test drive.
Outside bolt holes. The one of the right had actually been moved in simply a bit. This deserve to be reasonably common, especially when the carrier opens all the way to that is stops. There"s a the majority of weight pushing against the body and also the brackets. Because that as lot weight together there is on these brackets, ns was surprised just how not beefy this is.
Like magic, the noise go away. Reportedly the flexing that the body wall surface against the inside bracket was enough to reason some rattling and also thumping. In ~ some point I will spot weld the bracket because that a much more permanent solution.
To boost my view, i drilled a small hole to find the upper bracket (#6) and then made that bigger v a 1.75" bi-metal feet saw. With a bigger opening, I can see the front-most bolt sticking v the opening. That looked choose this:
The second latch is visible on the left next of the latch plate. It"s one ingenious little machine plumbed right into the share latch mechanism. If the stock latch in which method releases (or wasn"t closeup of the door properly), the secondary latch catches and also prevents the transport from swinging open.Unfortunately, neither of these assets are easily accessible anymore, although the lowering kit would certainly be pretty easy to make v plate steel, studs, a drill press and a welder.